勃艮第酒迷必備知識—勃艮第葡萄酒如何調節糖與酸？

糖與酸

在法國，地中海沿岸的產區因為天氣較溫暖，葡萄容易成熟，依規定，完全不能新增糖分釀造。勃艮第因位置偏北，和法國北部產區一樣，享有加糖提高酒精度的權利。新增的可以是蔗糖或甜菜糖，也可以是葡萄糖。酒精度高一些，可以讓酒喝起來更圓潤可口，加糖也可略提高產量，每公頃可多出一兩百升。雖然全球變暖的趨勢讓勃艮第越來越不需要為了提高酒精度而加糖，但是在釀造上，加糖還是有功效的。

加糖是延長紅酒發酵與浸皮時間的絕佳做法，在發酵的末期，分多次將糖加入酒槽中，可以讓發酵的時間延長。當紅酒發酵結束之後，因發酵而產生的二氧化碳消失，原本因氣泡而浮在酒面上的葡萄皮會逐漸下沉，失去保護葡萄酒的功能，因此浸皮的過程必須馬上停止，以防氧化。在發酵末期，加糖可以延長浸皮的時間。

除了各等級的葡萄園有最低自然酒精濃度的規定，勃艮第加糖所提高的酒精濃度依規定也不能超過2％，而且每公頃所加的糖也不得超過250千克。要提高酒精度，加糖並非唯一的辦法，去掉葡萄汁的水分、讓糖分更濃縮也有同樣的效果。濃縮法雖是新出現的方法，不過根據史料，19世紀時勃艮第就已經有讓葡萄酒更濃縮的方法。酒商在嚴冬的夜晚將葡萄酒裝入鋁桶內，放置在室外，等水分結冰後拿掉浮在桶中的冰塊就可達到濃縮目的。

酒商 Champy19世紀末的酒單裡就常出現冰凍過的李奇堡或玻瑪，價格也比一般沒有凍過的酒昂貴。如1889年的李奇堡一瓶可賣6法，冰凍濃縮後可賣到7法郎。

新近的濃縮法以蒸餾法及逆滲透法為主

逆滲透法在勃艮第較少見，蒸餾法常見一些。依照規定，酒莊只能對10％的葡萄汁進行濃縮。Durafroid及 Entropie是蒸餾濃縮系統主要的廠家，其藉助的原理是，在真空狀態下沸點大幅降低，只要加熱到約40℃就可以蒸發掉一部分水分，提高葡萄汁中的糖分濃度。濃縮法不僅使糖分濃度增加，也讓酸度、單寧及顏色等變得更濃，比加糖的方法更容易改變葡萄酒原本的面貌。勃艮第在釀造紅酒時偶爾也會採用流血法（ saignee），流掉一部分的葡萄汁，提高皮相對於汁的比例，以加深紅酒的顏色、提高澀味，不過不會提高糖度。

酸味具有儲存葡萄酒的功能，也是構成均衡口感的要素，勃艮第允許酸味不足時在酒或葡萄汁中加酸，但僅限於酒石酸。若是加在酒中，每升可加2。5克；若是加在葡萄汁中，則不能超過1。5克。不過加酸越早越好，因為可以防止酸味不夠的葡萄遭受細菌的侵害，特別是可以避免酒精發酵未完成時乳酸就開始發酵。這些在發酵前就加入的酒石酸，大部分在釀製完成之前就會凝結沉澱，並不會影響口味；但若是在釀成之後再加入就會留在酒中。後新增的酸很難和葡萄酒和諧地混合在一起，因此會產生粗糙的酸味，甚至出現金屬味，嚴重影響葡萄酒的質量。

依照歐盟的葡萄酒法令，不能在同一產品上加酸又加糖，所以理論上勃艮第部分酒莊加酸又加糖的行為是違法的。勃艮第人普遍肯定加糖的益處，但對加酸多少有負面看法。加酸雖可提高酸味，但很少能和葡萄酒協調地混合，即使經過多年的瓶中培養也很難改善，所以加酸只能算是補救措施，絕非提高質量的方法。

The essential knowledge of Burgundy fans - how does Burgundy regulate sugar and acid？

Sugar and acid

In France， due to the warmer weather in the production areas on the Mediterranean coast， the grapes are easy to mature， and according to regulations， sugar can not be added at all。 Due to its northerly position， Burgundy enjoys the right to add sugar to raise alcohol levels， just like in northern France。 The addition may be sucrose or beet sugar or glucose。 The higher alcohol content makes the wine more round and delicious， and the sugar can also increase the yield slightly， and one or two hundred liters per hectare。 Although the trend of global warming makes Burgundy less and less need to add sugar in order to improve alcohol， but in the brewing， sugar is still effective。

Adding sugar is an excellent way to prolong the fermentation and skinning time of red wine。 At the end of the fermentation， the sugar is added to the wine tank several times， which can prolong the fermentation time。 When the red wine is fermented， the carbon dioxide produced by the fermentation disappears。 The grape skin that originally floated on the wine surface due to the bubbles will gradually sink and lose the function of protecting the wine。 Therefore， the process of soaking the skin must be stopped immediately to prevent oxidation。 At the end of the fermentation， sugaring can extend the time of skin soaking。

In addition to the minimum natural alcohol concentration in all grades of vineyards， the increased alcohol concentration of Burgundy can not exceed 2%， and the sugar added per hectare should not exceed 250 kg。 To increase the alcohol content， sugar is not the only way to remove the water from the grape juice and make the sugar more concentrated。 Although the concentrating method is a new method， according to historical data， Burgundy has already had a way to make wine more concentrated in the 19th century。 The wine merchant puts the wine in an aluminum bucket on a harsh winter night and places it outdoors。 After the water freezes， the ice cubes floating in the bucket are removed to achieve the purpose of concentration。

The wine merchant Champy often had frozen Lichburg or Boma in the wine list at the end of the 19th century， and the price was also more expensive than the wine that was not frozen。 For example， in 1889， Li Qibao can sell 6 bottles， and after freezing， it can be sold to 7 francs。

The recent concentration method is mainly based on distillation and reverse osmosis

Reverse osmosis is less common in Burgundy， and distillation is common。 According to the regulations， the winery can only concentrate 10% of the grape juice。 Durafroid and Entropie are the main manufacturers of distillation and concentration systems。 The principle is that the boiling point is greatly reduced under vacuum。 As long as it is heated to about 40 °C， a part of the water can be evaporated to increase the sugar concentration in the grape juice。 The concentration method not only increases the concentration of sugar， but also makes the acidity， tannin and color become more concentrated， and it is easier to change the original appearance of the wine than the method of adding sugar。 Burgundy occasionally uses saignee when brewing red wine， which sheds a portion of the grape juice and increases the ratio of the skin to the juice to deepen the color of the wine and enhance the astringency， but does not increase the sugar content。

Sour taste has the function of preserving wine and is also a factor in a balanced taste。 Burgundy allows acid to be added to wine or grape juice when it is not sour， but it is limited to tartaric acid。 If added to the wine， add 2。5 grams per liter； if it is added to the grape juice， it should not exceed 1。5 grams。 However， the earlier the acid is added， the better， because it can prevent the grape with insufficient acidity from being attacked by bacteria， especially to avoid the fermentation of lactic acid when the alcohol fermentation is not completed。 Most of the tartaric acid added before the fermentation will be precipitated before the brewing， and will not affect the taste； however， if it is added after the brewing， it will remain in the wine。 The added acid is difficult to mix harmoniously with the wine， so it produces a rough sour taste and even a metallic taste， which seriously affects the quality of the wine。

According to the European Union‘s wine laws， it is not possible to add acid and sugar to the same product。 Therefore， it is illegal to add some acid and sugar to the winery in the first part of Burgundy。 Burgundians generally affirm the benefits of adding sugar， but have a negative view of how much acid is added。 Although adding acid can improve the acidity， it is rarely mixed with wine in a coordinated manner。 Even after years of cultivation in a bottle， it is difficult to improve。 Therefore， adding acid can only be regarded as a remedy， and it is not a method of improving quality。